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Cooking fever seafood bistro level 1812/15/2023 I like the version at Lullaby on the Lower East Side, “washed” with olive oil that gives the cold gin some real body. To drink: a martini, the exact definition of which continues to be stretched. I’d start with the collection of breads from Nura, yeasty warmth delivered in the form of garlic-coriander naan from its tandoor oven and Parker House rolls in a rotating flavor combination like saffron and perilla. But within the sameness there is excellence, and I can imagine a meal that cobbles together the best versions of the moment’s most ubiquitous dishes. Little Gem is the “It” lettuce (apologies to kale), while early-pandemic vestiges such as bean salads and tinned fish endure amid the pick-me decadence of caviar, oysters, and seafood towers. The New American wine-bar trend - small plates leading to progressively bigger ones - has become the New York paradigm. Jardim or Place des Fêtes - many of my dinners have blurred together a bit: Alt-martinis and glasses of volcanic whites usher in bread baskets with “house butter” and rustic Italianate pastas that mark a midway point before large-format proteins (“to share”) and a slice of cake or bowl of custard for dessert. I’ve been eating New York for half a year now, and while some standout nights have already come close to their own version of perfection - Eyval’s dynamic vision of Persian food, the casual opulence of St.
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